Buenos Aires Hotel 2: Faena Hotel + Universe

Faena Hotel + Universe, Puerto Madero
I have to admit, I was not keen on staying here. I've gotten a bit disenchanted with the whole Philippe-Starck-designed hotel where design trumps comfort and uppity models-in-waiting trump service. Before the trip, I had not planned on staying here at all, preferring to stay in the Palermo district. But a last-minute itinerary change meant that we had to return to Buenos Aires a day early from Bariloche, which meant an extra hotel night. Since I was planning on checking out the hotel's el Bistro for dinner, I ended up booking Faena more out of convenience than a real desire to experience it.

I was in for a pleasant surprise! For once, a Philippe Starck hotel has delivered on its promise of service. Upon confirming my reservation, I received an email from Augusto, my experience manager. At first, I thought this was just a form email, more form than substance. But when I landed at Jorge Newbury to find a taxi queue that snaked for ages and was hardly moving, Augusto came to the rescue by sending a car and driver.

On arrival at the hotel, we were greeted by a group of good-looking porters at the door. It was already past 9pm and our dinner reservation at el Bistro was for 9pm. Augusto confirmed that it would be fine to dine later in the evening at 10pm as well as confirming my tango lesson and spa appointment for the next day. I finally showed up to dinner at 10:30pm. It was too late to order the tasting menu, but the a la carte items were delicious. I was curious to try el Bistro after I learned that the chef had trained under el Bulli's Ferran Adria. I found the dishes a lot less gimmicky than I would expect of an Adria-disciple, which is not necessarily a bad thing. My favourite was the capeletti stuffed with stewed lamb with mint air (i.e. that famous foam!), mustard and pickled carrots. The berries dessert was memorable, it came presented in a berry icicle bowl.

fuzzy iPhone photo of el Bistro dining room

To be honest, though, my most memorable Faena dining experience happened at breakfast in el Mercado. It was the first place in Buenos Aires and Bariloche where someone knew what skim milk was! Finally, I managed to get a latte with skim milk. And I learned that in Spanish, skim milk is leche decremada. When I thanked the waitress for the Spanish lesson, she replied: "Whenever you like, I'm here from 8 to 5."

My first skim milk latte in Argentina @ el Mercado

I thoroughly enjoyed my tango lesson with M&F, even if I did find it a bit tough. F kept reminding me: "Tango is very easy for the woman. All she has to do is relax and feel where the man is leading her, no need to think! Even if she makes a mistake, he'll figure out how to fix it."

The gym was very well-equipped (I went for a run on the treadmill) and the spa was wonderful as well. I enjoyed a steam in the hammam after a very relaxing massage.

I pretty much cocooned myself in the Faena Universe for a whole day and it was a very pleasant experience. When I wasn't in the spa, I was working from my room where there was a very spacious desk, and the wifi was free.

There's a desk behind the bed and a bathroom (w/o bath tub) behind the lush, red curtains.