Ancient Town of Pingle (平樂)
For those who know China only through newspaper stories (2008 Olympics, double digit GDP growth, fake food and goods, Melamine in milk, pollution, etc.), it can seem like a Machiavellian place. Newspapers have to simplify stories to fit 10-word headlines when the real story is more like a long-running soap opera.
In recent years, I have not travelled to China. My last visit was almost three years ago and it was just a day trip to hash out some quality issues with the factory near Dongguan that was producing Little Cream Book at the time (now, only the boxes are produced in China). For me, travelling to China is rarely leisurely. I always think of myself as being able to "rough it" to some degree, but China always puts that view of myself to the test. And I always end up leaving China feeling I've failed the test, like when I got stuck on a hard sleeper car of a Shanghai to Chengdu train (I was getting off in Nanjing) and sat uncomfortably in one spot all too alert to the spitting, orange peels, seeds and other things that were being thrown around. In essence, China is the only country I've been to where I end up feeling like I'm a spoilt princess with hypochondria and obsessive compulsive disorder. Yet, whenever I do make the trip, I also find this country infinitely fascinating, an enigma as overwhelming as it's size with opportunities to match.
Case in point is my visit to Pingle. I stayed in an old nobleman's home that has been converted into a museum/guest house. It's across the river from the ancient town and is in a compound with other touristy attractions like a paper milling workshop, a farmhouse restaurant, tea house etc. Apparently, the house had been moved from its original site and rebuilt at its current location as one of the local tourism bureau's projects to attract more tourists. Mr Li at the guest house told me that I was their first visitor from Hong Kong, but they have previously hosted Japanese and Korean guests of the tourism bureau.
The 8-room house has incredible potential. Being an old house, it has plenty of charm and character; it makes for a great cocktail or dinner party setting or even a movie location. But unfortunately, as a guest house, it is seriously lacking. This place is supposed to be the most luxurious accommodation on offer in this area, which makes me feel even more the guilty princess when I write this. The published rate for a suite is RMB588. In pictures, it looks kitsch, but fine. In real life, it's uncomfortable. The doors can be locked from the inside, but not on the outside. I was reminded not to leave valuables in the room. The bedding was damp and musty. The red carpet was scummy. The bathroom, while not the worst I have seen in China, did not smell inviting. The thing is, with a bit of a re-fit and proper management with well-trained housekeepers, a chef and a great manager/concierge, this place would be awesome. As it is right now, it's just a nice back-drop.
There's a great opportunity for someone to invest in a chain of boutique guest houses around China, perhaps along the ancient Silk Roads.
For photos, check out the Pingle photo album on Facebook.
In recent years, I have not travelled to China. My last visit was almost three years ago and it was just a day trip to hash out some quality issues with the factory near Dongguan that was producing Little Cream Book at the time (now, only the boxes are produced in China). For me, travelling to China is rarely leisurely. I always think of myself as being able to "rough it" to some degree, but China always puts that view of myself to the test. And I always end up leaving China feeling I've failed the test, like when I got stuck on a hard sleeper car of a Shanghai to Chengdu train (I was getting off in Nanjing) and sat uncomfortably in one spot all too alert to the spitting, orange peels, seeds and other things that were being thrown around. In essence, China is the only country I've been to where I end up feeling like I'm a spoilt princess with hypochondria and obsessive compulsive disorder. Yet, whenever I do make the trip, I also find this country infinitely fascinating, an enigma as overwhelming as it's size with opportunities to match.
Case in point is my visit to Pingle. I stayed in an old nobleman's home that has been converted into a museum/guest house. It's across the river from the ancient town and is in a compound with other touristy attractions like a paper milling workshop, a farmhouse restaurant, tea house etc. Apparently, the house had been moved from its original site and rebuilt at its current location as one of the local tourism bureau's projects to attract more tourists. Mr Li at the guest house told me that I was their first visitor from Hong Kong, but they have previously hosted Japanese and Korean guests of the tourism bureau.
The 8-room house has incredible potential. Being an old house, it has plenty of charm and character; it makes for a great cocktail or dinner party setting or even a movie location. But unfortunately, as a guest house, it is seriously lacking. This place is supposed to be the most luxurious accommodation on offer in this area, which makes me feel even more the guilty princess when I write this. The published rate for a suite is RMB588. In pictures, it looks kitsch, but fine. In real life, it's uncomfortable. The doors can be locked from the inside, but not on the outside. I was reminded not to leave valuables in the room. The bedding was damp and musty. The red carpet was scummy. The bathroom, while not the worst I have seen in China, did not smell inviting. The thing is, with a bit of a re-fit and proper management with well-trained housekeepers, a chef and a great manager/concierge, this place would be awesome. As it is right now, it's just a nice back-drop.
There's a great opportunity for someone to invest in a chain of boutique guest houses around China, perhaps along the ancient Silk Roads.
For photos, check out the Pingle photo album on Facebook.
posted by 10000miles at 18:00
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