Unitus & microfinance

AFS' birth announcement arrived in the mail today and I noted with amusement that we share the same Chinese name (at least in sound)! There is only a slight addition in one of the characters in her name changing the meaning from her "forever peacful" to my "singing peace". Can't wait to meet her in Bangalore!

Even more interesting, though, was the brief note that her father would be working with Unitus, which "is a global microfinance accelerator that acts as a social venture capital investor for the microfinance industry". Their 14-minute video is a great intro to their work that has impacted more than half a million individuals and counting:

Udaipur 2: Cricket & Kengo Kuma; leadership & creativity

25 April -- Am writing this post poolside. Got some spare time before the group checks out of Devi Garh this morning. The 2-day stay went pretty much without hitches – roof terrace formal dinner, cricket match against hotel team, treasure hunt, pool party and of course meetings.

Ahhh, this is the life. Got Black Eyed Peas’ “Where is the Love” playing right now as a cool breeze blows. Am sitting under a white canopy, but still baking under the sun. Finally, I just might get a tan.

The highlight from this trip was watching the group of executives, most of whom had never played cricket, play against a team of locals who pretty much grew up playing the sport. It sounds so clichéd, but sport does really build bonds and team spirit. But only if you have a great team captain. I’m always fascinated to watch people lead. There are many different styes of leadership, but in my experience and observataion, a leader is only credible and effective when there is mutual respect among all players. I have worked with this particular group for 3 years now. From an outsider’s point of view, the group works and plays well together. As with all multi-national groups, there is a diverse mixture of cultural backgrounds, personalities and interests. It’s not easy to get all the individual elements to gel and work together, let alone enjoy playing with each other. That this happens is very much a credit to the individuals, but also to the leader; as the leader sets the tone and the expectations. As in sport, managing an all-star team is never easy. Each person must be given an opportunity or area to shine.

That's why it was interesting to watch the cricket match. R, the team captain had to coax, support and encourage his team of players, some enthusiastic, some not so (but it's interesting to watch how the not-so-keen become more involved during the game. I guess when you're put in a situation where you will either win or lose, most people strive to win.), with different levels of cricket skills. In the end, he said, what was most important was that every person got a chance to bat. Sometimes winning the game isn't everything. Which reminds me of the interesting after-dinner discussion the night before on how different cultures viewed negotiations -- which ones always strove for win-win or win-lose. And sometimes, it's not so transparent. Some cultures (Americans were mentioned) think they are striving for win-win, but may be perceived by others as only going for win-lose outcomes. My observation was that Chinese don't really care about whether the outcome is win or lose as long as everyone perceives that they have won (the face factor). But thinking back to Prisoner's Dilemma, it seems like human nature to look out for self interest even though it may not be in one's own best interest.

Speaking of leadership, I got some insight into what it takes to manage the creative process, which in some respects is even more difficult than managing a business process, because there is no absolute predictor or measure of success (profitability). I had a chance to sit-in on reknowned Japanese architect Kengo Kuma’s talk on his work and creative process. His work is influenced by the aesthetic principles of Katsura Imperial Palace and architects such as Frank Lloyd Wright (minus the ego). He is innovative in working with unconventional building materials; for example, rice paper (Takayanagi Community Center), bamboo (Great (Bamboo) Wall at The Commune), shape-memory alloy (an installation for Krug Champagne). Kuma-san describes the aim of his buildings as “being able to disappear into the landscape”. And indeed they do. He recounted how one taxi driver, upon arriving at Kitakami Canal Museum said he couldn’t find the building. It is about architect that complements and respects the landscape rather than dominating it. In terms of process, because a lot of his work relies on finding new ways to work with materials, it involves a lot of collaboration and input from craftsmen. He recounted how local builders' first reaction to his idea for the house was that it was impossible. But eventually, with a lot of communication and persistence, Kuma-san was able to convince them that it was possible and persuade them to try. In the end, the project was successfully completed. But there were other instances where possibilities reveal themselves only after discussions with craftsmen more knowledgable about the material's properties.

Udaipur 1: Jet Airways delays, beautiful Devi Garh

23 April -- Got a bit of time to spare before cocktails start. Just finished checking set-up for cocktails and dinner; looks splendid. Tonight's theme is rose, so rose petals have been strewn everywhere. The setting at Devi Garh is simply stunning.

Woke up at 3:30am this morning (actually, didn't really sleep much since I was in the bar having drinks with the group till just after midnight and knew I had to wake up early). Got to the airport around 4:45am only to find out that flight to Udaipur would be delayed by 3 hours! So far, in my experience with Jet Airways domestic flights, they have a 100% late rate.

Once we got to Udaipur, everything was find. As always, the Devi Garh staff are very welcoming. The highlight of the day is a formal, sit-down dinner on the roof terrace with everyone dressed up in kurtas and kurtis (long tunics worn over trousers that taper at the bottom, women also get a scarf to accessorize the outfit). Should be a beautiful night under a clear, starry sky.

New Delhi 2: Three saga continues, The Manor, more shopping

Got a call from Three again this morning. They only got the cover sheet of my authorization letter fax, so have to re-fax. Finally got a call shortly thereafter from them telling me what the DHL airway bill no. for my sim card is. ETA in Singapore is Monday, in time for my Wednesday morning arrival. I will have to call them to activate it though.

Decided to walk around Janpath Market. On the way, I was approached by a young guy. "Watch out," he yelled, as I tried to cross the street. While we were waiting for cars to pass, he adds, "I'm a university student, just want to practice my English. Where are you going?" To check out Janpath market. "Oh, don't go there, you'll get lots of people hassling you. Why don't you go to Central." Sure, I'll check it out. Though, in the back of my mind, I thought it would be a time waster. I got into a tuk tuk and Mannu the driver asks, "Where are you from?" They all ask that. "Are you married?", "Do you have a boyfriend?". I get to Central and the shop is very well put-together and a pleasant shopping environment. However, I know it will be a total time waster. They sell carpets, pashmina shawls, jewellery and knick knacks, nothing that I'm looking for. A good-looking guy by the name of Sofi greets me and takes me down to the carpet room. "Have a seat," he says, motioning towards the leather sofa. He starts pulling out carpets. "I'll look, but I'm not interested in buying," I tell him. It's OK, he tells me and asks if I want anything to drink and offers Kashmir tea. The tea arrives and it's good, hints of cardamom and honey, "like you," he adds. What a salesman. He gives his pitch on how carpets are made, how long it takes, the craftsmanship etc., and it's a good pitch. But unfortunately, I'm not in the market for a carpet. He looks disappointed and then takes me up to look at pashminas. Still not interested. "It's my birthday. I can give you a special discount." Nope, thanks, but no thanks. As I'm about to get back into the tuk tuk, he runs out and says, "The card I gave you has my mobile number. My name is Sofi. Call me if you want to celebrate my birthday with me tonight." Thanks. But again, no thanks. Back in the tuk tuk, Mannu asks me what I'm doing tonight. Work, I tell him. "I'll be working."

I head back to Janpath Market, and I do get hassled by everyone -- shoes shiners (I was wearing sandals), people selling pipes, mother with child...I find what I need from several stalls and head back to the hotel. Next on the list was Salon de Ravi Bajaj (women's line) in Defence Colony. I found it in the ground floor of a residential compound. The designs highlighted beadwork and embroidery, but not in an OTT way. Good for more formal, glittery occasions, but not what I was looking for. Decided to look for this shop called Kaaya, an emporium of Indian designer fashions, in South Extension I, but the shop had moved. Was going to check out Haus Khas Village, but was getting a bit hungry by 2pm so headed to The Manor, a boutique hotel in residential Friend's Colony. The 10-suite hotel is Aman's Delhi outpost for guests who want/need to stopover until they get their own property up-and-running. It was very quiet when I arrived. There was a group of people in the private dining room in the restaurant, 77, but nobody else. Didn't see any guests in the lobby or lawn. The feel reminds me of Amansara -- very few rooms in a residential compound. The Manor is great if you don't want to be anywhere near the hustle and bustle of Delhi. The surroundings are peaceful and orderly. Decor is a bit Conran modern -- clean, simple, not likely to offend, but then again, not likely to excite either. Having said that, The Manor is the only hotel of this type in Delhi, which is interesting.

Wifi connection used: Imperial Hotel, IRp900/24 hours (Around US$20)

New Delhi 1: Three saga continues with some redemption, Imperial Hotel, Shopping

I woke up the next morning and first thing I did was to get a brand new phone. The concierge had a driver take me to a nearby tuck shop-like store, where I picked up a Nokia 1100, a super basic phone with an IRp1,000+ sim. I had to get my photo taken and give them a passport copy for the service application. They had me sit on a stool in the middle of the shop, which is just an aisle really, while a guy held a red sheet behind me and another guy took my polaroid. It only took 15 minutes to sort out and one of the guys in the shop dropped me back at the hotel.


Imperial Hotel bills itself as "India's Museum Hotel", because it was in the hotel that Jawaharlal Nehru and others discussed the founding of modern India. The hotel has the feel of a Raffles in Singapore, Peninsula in Hong Kong and Claridges in London, that old, British colonial feel. I'm staying in a Heritage Room (published rate is US$400/night, but online you can get rates as low as US$220 depending on availability) and its nice and spacious with king bed, sitting area, desk with wifi, large-screen plasma TV, dressing room and bathroom. My only complaint is that it doesn't meet the JR rule of luxury hotels -- separate walk-in shower and tub and double sink. Decor is simple colonial, a few prints of India in colonial times. Otherwise, not very inspiring. They have an interesting pillow menu, but I have yet to test it. I like the public spaces and there's a signature Imperial scent which is very welcoming and uplifting after a dusty day around Delhi's markets. It's a comfortable hotel and service is as one would expect of a historic, five-star property -- friendly staff, willing to accommodate, but not quite at the level of anticipating need.


Back to my Three saga. I called Three to have them forward my HK no. to the new Indian no since I couldn't do it online (the online forwarding is only for HK no.s). Of course, the woman had to put me on hold to check whether it could be done. Eventually, she got it done. I im-ed a friend to test it out. It worked and I was happy once again. The Nokia 1100, while basic, has a nice feel to it. It's been a while since I've had such a small and light phone with a monochrome display and does little else aside from make/receive calls and smses. I set the clock to local time (to avoid having to reset my watch), so I guess that's another useful function.

Since my HK no. was forwarded, I didn't really wasn't in urgent need of my HK sim card, so I decided not to bother FY with having to pick it up and sending it to me. Just as I thought all was sorted, another Three customer service rep called me. Mr Wong, handles Supreme accounts and he was very friendly and tried hard to please. He was calling to follow-up on my situation and asked if everything was taken care of. I told him I had gotten my HK no. forwarded and he was surprised that was the case. He told me they don't usually do that after a card has been lost and that it involved a HK$11.50/minute charge. He asked whether I was going to have my friend pick up my sim card. I told him I wasn't, because I didn't really want to bother a friend when not absolutely necessary and emphasised again that I thought it should be their job to take care of something like this. Well, after a few more phone calls over the course of the morning, Mr Wong told me that they would DHL my new sim to Singapore. I would need to send me my HKID copy with an authorization letter authorizing them to forward my HK no. to an Indian no. and acknowledging the charges as well as authorizing my friend EO in Singapore to take delivery of my sim. Fine, whatever. I was in a rush to meet Sanjay from Reebok who was going to supply the guy's cricket gear.

In the afternoon, I headed out for some shopping. First stop was Santushti Shopping Complex, lots of cute, little high-end boutiques (frequented by well-heeled Delhites and expat wives) run by Air Force Wives in a nice garden setting. Next, the taxi driver insisted that I should check out Padma Arts & Crafts, which was a total dud of a tourist trap. So I decided that I would dictate the next stop, which would be FabIndia in N Block Market, Greater Kailash I. But as soon as I got out of the cab, I headed into Ravi Bajaj, a rather chic menswear shop. I must admit, it was the "Le Cafe Terrace" sign that attracted me. And the illy cappucino I got while waiting for the my purchases of men's kurtas to be rung up proved to be a welcome respite from the watery coffee at breakfast. The guy's kurta's were not cheap, but very stylish. The Kasa Gelato kiosk across the street also served up a tempting array of flavours. I opted for coffee.

Cool Destinations Update: U is for Udaipur

Photo: A view of Udaipur's City Palace on the boat ride to Lake Palace.

On a recent visit to the Lake Palace in Udaipur during a recce trip for a corporate client, the complacent front desk staff left me somewhat unimpressed. Although the hardware is every bit the stunning palace and I would still recommend it for people who want a memorable venue to mark an occasion -- imagine a marriage proposal at sunset on the roof terrace or after-dinner cocktails on their barge with firework overhead reflecting onto the still lake waters. Yet a stay there is not that tempting; as the clientele is mainly groups. For a property that has such a magical setting (it would make Disneyland jealous!) with well-appointed rooms and amazing lake views, it's a shame that it doesn't have the attentive, personalised service to match. Everyone there just seemed to be going through the motions, working by a formula, exhibiting little creativity. It's a shame really, because I can only imagine what a top rate luxury hotel mangement company could do for the place.

Aman Junkie

I had a meeting with Rohini of Aman today for an update on their two properties in Sri Lanka, Amangalla and Amanwella. We had a great chat about many things including why a stay at an Aman is so special. I confess up front that I am an Aman Junkie. There are lots of top rate hotels, resorts, lodges and camps around the world; Huka Lodge in New Zealand, Governor's Il Moran Camp in Kenya, Park Hyatt in Tokyo, just to name a few. But Aman is special.

I was never able to verbalize the Aman difference until Sally at Amanbagh said it for me: "This is our home and we treat every guest as though they were a friend visiting our home". Eureka, that was it! It wasn't the clean, modern, comfortable design or the understated luxury. It wasn't the particular locations or destinations. I always knew it was the people, but I couldn't figure out how everyone could make me feel like I was staying somewhere special; at least, more special than any of the other hotels in the US$500-US$1,000 per night price range.

For example, at many of the top hotels, staff know to make an effort to address you by your name. Being able to address the guest by name is really the bare minimum though. It is just the starting point for making the guest feel at home, but it's amazing how few places manage to get even this simple thing right. I was impressed when the pool attendant addressed me by my name the first time I went down to the pool at Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay. I was impressed when the front desk at Claridge's remembered my name the next evening even though my only contact with her was at check-in. But even then, the feeling is that they are merely saying a name that they have made a point to remember because you have supposedly paid for this service rather than because they really have made an effort to get to know and like you as an individual.

At most luxury hotels, there are cards signed by the general manager in your room, but at Aman, it's always a greeting in person, a chat by the pool, a drink in the bar or even dinner. They are wonderful conversationalists, chatting with you to get to know you as a person better. The managers at Aman at not just managing what goes on behind the scenes. They are your personal hosts or hostesses, making sure your needs are anticipated well in advance. I remember the names of the people at Aman, because they treat me like a friend, not a client. There isn't that distance, stiffness and formality that is so prevalant at many other luxury hotels. And the amazing thing is, I haven't met a manager at Aman that I haven't been able to click with. They all just have this incredible knack for making everyone feel at home and knowing what you might like before you even know it yourself.

It can be somthing very simple like the farewell at Amansara where all the staff stand and wave goodbye to you until your car has entirely left the complex. Another example was when I was working in the Library at Amanbagh. Sally walked in to check up on me. She asked if I needed anything or would like something to eat or drink. I replied that at was fine. Many people would have stopped at this point; their job done. But Sally went on to explore, "Are you sure you wouldn't like to try our fresh pomegranate juice?" Mmmmm! Pomegranate juice, sounds lovely! So she had someone bring me a glass of pomegranate juice. At that moment, I really did feel like I was staying at a friend's home.

And there are always those "wow" moments, which you come to expect from Aman. But nonetheless, they still manage to woo you all over again each time. Like when Sally mentioned meeting in the lobby to "go out with some other guests for drinks". Go out where, I wondered. Afterall, we were in the middle of nowhere. "Oh, just a neighborhood bar," said Sally. The neighborhood bar turned out to be a centuries old chatri, regal-looking pit stops for maharajas, now a ruin. But given the Aman treatment, it looked like a very hip bar lounge.


As for the properties in Sri Lanka, Rohini assured me that life has regained normalcy since the Tsunami, transfers by air taxi from Colombo to the properties cut the hassle and travel time down significantly. Adrian Zecha's always had this knack for creating the next travel hot spots, just think Bhutan. I can see Tangalle, where their beach property Amanwella is located, becoming the next Bali or Phuket before they became over-developed. Destination aside, Zecha just knows how to pick the right people to deliver the Aman experience. So I have no doubt that Amangalla and Amanwella will not disappoint. Now, if only I could just make some time to head to Sri Lanka for my next Aman fix!