Wyoming: Brooks Lake Lodge, Yellowstone, Old Faithful Inn & Amangani

12-14 July 2006

"I see trees of green, red roses too
I see 'em bloom, for me and for you
And I think to myself, what a wonderful world.

I see skies of blue, clouds of white
Bright blessed days, dark sacred nights
And I think to myself, what a wonderful world.

The colors of a rainbow, so pretty in the sky
Are also on the faces of people going by
I see friends shaking hands, sayin' how do you do
They're really sayin', "I love you".

I hear babies cry, I watch them grow
They'll learn much more, than I'll ever know
And I think to myself, what a wonderful world!"
~ Louis Armstrong, What a Wonderful World

"A picture says a thousand words," goes the saying. But sometimes, even a picture fails to accurately describe the emotional power of nature's beauty. In those instances, a song may work.

Singer Ray Callaway was performing cowboy and western songs throughout our dinner at Brooks Lake Lodge (BLL). All the other 11 guests seemed to know the songs, but I was hearing most of them for the first time. None of the songs seemed to move the group as much as when Ray did his rendition of Louis Armstrong's "What a Wonderful World". It made quite a few people teary-eyed around the dinner table. It was probably so moving, because it touched on what we were all feeling at that moment or had been experiencing since we arrived.

My four days in and around Jackson, including Grand Teton, Yellowstone and Dubois was perfectly rendered by the song. And all the people I met were wonderful -- There were the two couples from Michigan (one couple were the grandparents of Adam, one of the few full-time, year-round staff at BLL), a couple from Phoenix who also spend considerable time in Atlanta because the husband is trying to retire from a coaching the Atlanta Falcons, a scrabble-loving family from Alabama and a couple from Dallas. Everyone had been to BLL more than once.

Having just come back from the overnight pack trip, I could understand why BLL engenders such loyalty among its guests. The setting is stunning, the service superb in a familial (rather than formal) way and there's just so much to do (ride, hike, fish, boat, spa, etc.) within such the vast playground of Shoshone National Park. And despite being in the wilderness, you don't feel lacking of any comforts or conveniences. Sure, there was no mobile phone reception and no phone in my room, but I didn't feel the urge to take or make calls (of course, there is a house phone for those that do). There was free wi-fi in the lounge area. My laundry was done within hours. I stayed in one of the lodge rooms for US$330++/night, definitely a great value since it includes all three meals and afternoon tea as well as activities such as trail rides, fishing, guided hikes etc. (spa treatments, of course, are extra). There's no air-conditioning, but there's no real need for it either.




I was reluctant to leave BLL, but they were full and I had to move on to Yellowstone. I had had a fabulous time and everyone there (guests and staff) are such wonderful people. I hadn't actually made a reservation for where I was to stay next, but on a whim, I called up Old Faithful Inn (recommended by my uncle for its architectural and historical significance as well as it convenient location). They only had one of their bathroom-less rooms in the old wing, but at least I'd have somewhere to stay within the park.

It was 11am by the time I finally got myself to leave BLL. I arrived at Old Faithful Inn seven hours later, having driven around most of Yellowstone's southern loop. I made a few photo stops along the way. At one, a couple motor-bikers, who had ridden from Chicago, asked me to take their photo and asked after my marital status. I found it quite amazing that people drive from all parts of the country to Yellowstone, a good number of them in RVs (recreational vehicles, a bit like mobile motel rooms). Low prices at the gasoline pump really do contribute to the American way of life. My favourite photo-op was when a silly-looking bison caused a traffic jam in the opposite lane.


Everywhere, the ravages of the great fire of 1988 were evident, but also nature's regenerative power.


At Old Faithful Inn, my room had no bathroom, just a sink. I found it charming though; I was staying in the original part of the inn. Out of my window, I even had a view of Old Faithful (which goes off like clockwork every 90 minutes or so). To experience a piece of history with front row views of Old Faithful, US$90.10/night seemed pretty reasonable.


The historic inn has survived a lot since it was built in 1903. Obviously, it has undergone renovations and modernization, but much has been kept according to the original, including the materials used to fill in the gap between logs -- mud and grass!


The lobby, at seven stories high, is impressive.


The next morning, I went on a beautiful and inspiring walk to Mystic Falls, passing by a lot of hot springs, geysers and other hydrothermal features. It's a leisurely and pleasant walk, probably about 6 miles back-and-forth. Along the way, I happened upon a group being led by a Ranger Bach, so I joined in to listen to his fascinating explanations of what we were seeing along the way to the falls. Getting a ranger to guide you around the park is highly recommended!


I had a wonderful dinner at Amangani on my way back to Jackson. Amangani has a great location, set high up on a hill, overlooking the valley where you can see lots of wildlife roaming. You get this view from each of the rooms, pool, lobby...basically, from everywhere you look. I had dinner with Guy Heywood, the manager there, and got a hint of what is to come in terms of future Amans (In Asia, Beijing and Delhi are already slated to open soon. In the Americas, they're looking at Lake Powell, Utah and Baja, Mexico!). As always, Aman's level of service never ceases to amaze me. I had only made an arrangement to have dinner with Guy (not stay there as a guest), but the staff still addressed me by my name! I asked Guy how he manages to train staff to know. But of course, he didn't really let me in on their secret. Suffice it to say, it's a lot of training and briefing! Dining tip: Try their homemade ice creams! I had scoops of goat's cheese, port wine and graham cracker; all absoutely delish. And if you're staying there, make sure you have a nice romantic private dinner in their really, cool tee-pee, from which you can sip Kir Royals and watch the sun set over the valley below where the animals graze.


My one big disappointment on this trip: Lots of elk, but no bear!

Brooks Lake Lodge: Pack Trip

11-12 July 2006 -- It's been storming on and off all afternoon, so I don't feel like I'm missing too much sitting here blogging. At least I'm sitting in front of magnificent views while the occasional thunder and lightening goes off, followed by torrential downpour, which usually lasts no more than 30 minutes at a time.

I came in around 12:30pm after an overnight pack trip. It was an amazing experience, I almost want to go out and do it again tomorrow! When I got to Brooks Lake Lodge yesterday, it was around 1:30pm already (I was late from missing the turn-off). I grabbed a quick bit for lunch before riding out around 3pm with Greg in the lead, me on Brody, Amy in the back with the pack horse and her sister Daniel, who was visiting for 2 weeks, in between. The ride was gorgeous. The sun was out and the wild flowers in the green meadow made for a sea of colours.


Early on, Greg pointed out a mountain in the distance with remnants of the winter's snow on top. We'd be riding there. A little further on, Amy suddenly shouts to Greg, "We forgot the shotgun!". But they decided that the bears probably wouldn't cause us much trouble. I was pretty sure we wouldn't be needing it either, but I was also secretly hoping that I might be able to catch a glimpse of a bear from a safe distance.

When we got to a sign that read "Wilderness Boundary", we stopped briefly so that Greg could check in with the lodge on walkie-talkie. It was the farthest point where the walkie-talkies would be able to talk to the lodge.


By the time we rode into camp, it was a little after 5pm (about half an hour in from the Wilderness Boundary). Western saddles are so much more comfortable than English saddles. My backside wasn't sore at all, but the moment I dismounted, I could feel my knees wobble a little bit.

The horses were placed in a corral with electrified fencing to keep them from running off. There a solar-panel charged battery that hooks up to fencing with wiring in them. Pretty nifty. But because it looked like it might storm, Amy decided not to electrify the fence.



Camp consisted of a dining tent, cook tent, several sleeping tents and even a toilet tent (ok, it's still a whole in the ground, but at least there's a seat and you get to take care of business in relative privacy). The camp takes about 3 days to set up and, in accordance with park rules, it has to be moved every 16 days.


My sleeping tent had a cot and sleeping bag that would keep me warm in even -20C weather. Amy explained that I should strip down to just underwear before I get into the sleeping bag because it works off of the body's own heat.


The first order of business was setting up the cook tent and getting the campfire going so that Amy could start cooking. Greg went off to chop some wood to keep the fire going. In the meantime, Amy got one going with some dry twigs and paper carton and started putting away the food items in the pack into the bear-proof containers. She also pointed to the bear pole behind the corral, which is used to put things like scented toiletry items.

While Amy and Greg were hard at work, I relaxed in a chair and took a nap (was in remnants of jet lag or the high altitude?), despite all the flies and mosquitos swarming and buzzing around me. No amount of OFF! or deet-infused cream would get them to stay away from me, so I decided that the best way to deal was to just let them be.

By the time Greg finished with the wood, it was time to take the horses out to graze. He had been gone for about 40 minutes or so (they're supposed to graze for an hour) when we suddenly heard Greg call for Amy. Apparently, Peggy had wandered off onto the trail and would be heading back to the lodge if Greg didn't go after her. So Amy went off to bring back the other horses while Greg went after Peggy.

The sun was setting when Greg rode back with Peggy and dinner was ready. I was expecting hot dogs and smores for dinner, but I was in for a surprise! Amy amazed me with her campfire culinary skills. With two dutch ovens, she backed buttermilk biscuits with cheese and a chocolate pudding cake for dessert. For starters, we had a salad with julienne carrots, peppers and onions. There were two types of dressing -- ranch, of course and vinegarette. For main, we had steak grilled over the campfire and baked potatoes, also pulled from the campfire, served with sides of baby corn and caramelized carrots. Dinner was served in the dining tent with white table cloth and napkins, proper plates, glasses and silverware. It was around 9:30pm when I sat down with my mug of apple cider and we devoured our dinner by candlelight (which, incidentally, is very good for getting rid of mosquitoes. The flames attract them and they end up burning their wings. By the end of the dinner, our table looked like a mass graveyard for mosquitoes).

After dinner, we pulled chairs up by the campfire. It was a shame that the sky was still clouded over (it drizzled a bit early in the evening, but the full force of the storm passed us by, leaving us pretty dry for the night), so we couldn't see the moon or the stars. We chatted a bit. Greg is working as a wrangler for the summer. He heads back to Mississipi as a junior in geological engineering (applicable in oil & gas industries, civil engineering or building projects that require underground work etc.). Apparently, he learned how to ride on a friend's ranch in Tennessee. How did he end up in Wyoming then, I asked. Internet, he said. He looked for dude ranches looking for summer help and that's how he found Brooks Lake Lodge. This summer was his first season working here. Amy, on the other hand, is a season regular. She's worked summer and winter (lots of snowmobiling through the snow-covered wilderness) season for the past four years. She's originally from Michigan, so she's no stranger to cold weather. She tried to convince her 16-year-old sister (Amy herself is 25) to work here this summer, but Daniel opted for a 2-week holiday here instead. That's what I would have done! Daniel does quite a bit of riding at home. She has her own horse and competes in shows.

By 11pm, I was starting to nod off (I woke up from campfire smoke being blown in my face), so I decided to turn in. I did as Amy had instructed and crawled into the sleeping bag with just underwear and a top. When I woke up this morning around 8am, I thought I was in the lodge, in a real bed. The cot was surprisingly comfortable and stiff and the sleeping bag was really warm.

Amy (she and Daniel had slept by the campfire all night) and Greg were already up. Greg had gone off to graze the horses again; this time he led them two at a time so there would be no repeats of runaway horses.


Amy had ready a pot of hot coffee and a plate of fruit. For breakfast, she cooked up french toast, crispy bacon and eggs. What a great way to wake up in the wilderness!


After breakfast, Greg saddled up the horses and off we went, back to the lodge. Amy stayed behind because another family of 7 (3 adults and 4 young boys) were riding in. Our paths actually crossed along the way. I hope the storms of this afternoon missed the camp, but then again, it could make for more adventures and stories to tell. My pack trip was uneventful, but it was a great experience nonetheless. There's something about being out in nature. Everything's different and every little creature comfort is not taken for granted. It's a great way to chill out and recharge. For the time that I was out there, I didn't think about work. Nothing really seemed to matter; it was all about enjoying the moment. It's great way to spend US$250(much better at destressing than a day at the spa!) and definitely worth doing once a year.



The sky is clearing and the sun is streaming into the lodge now. That family out there is going to have a great night of stargazing ahead of them tonight. And they'll be making s'mores too, because I saw the marshmellows in the bear-proof containers.

Jackson: Alpine House & Grand Teton National Park

10 and 11 July 2006 -- Arrived into Jackson Airport around 9:30pm. Rented a car and headed into town. It was dark out, but I could still feel the tranquility of the vast landscape -- towering mountain ranges on either side and plains in between with an elk refuge. And oddly, I did feel like I had arrived in the land depicted in My Own Private Idaho, Even Cowgirls Get the Blues, A River Runs Through It, and most recently, Brokeback Mountain. Just a great expanse of wide open nature as far as the eye can see.

It wasn't difficult to find Alpine House, Jackson is a small town with just a few main streets. I walked into Alpine House and found an envelope with my name on it at the front desk. Inside were the key to my room and a note : "Sorry we missed you...please don't lock the front door.". Welcome to small town Jackson. All was quiet in the house, but as I started up the stairs to my room, I noticed a Japanese guy diligently working away on his laptop (I found out the next morning at breakfast that his colleagues/clients in London obviously didn't know he was on holiday in Jackson). Big town meets small town.


Alpine House is a great little B&B. I love the decor: quaint, country inn with a touch of Alpine.


Inside the room, everything foldable (tissue box, toilet paper, face towel) was folded in a fan shape (maybe Mandarin Oriental should consider using this little touch to tie in with their "I'm a fan" ad campaigns).


My room was comfortable enough for an overnight stay, a steal at US$165++/night. The best thing for me was the in-room wi-fi. After a brief chat with VH on msn messenger about Jackson area real estate, I went to bed excited about driving through Grand Teton on my way to Brooks Lake the next day for an overnight pack trip.



I woke up a bit later than usual (7am, which would have been 9am ET) and headed down for breakfast. The breakfast room was full so I wandered around the house and took a few pics. By the time I finished, I managed to find a table. I had a great breakfast of toasted english muffins with cream cheese and smoked salmon, grapefruit and coffee. I skipped the french toast and omelette because I wanted to grab a bit at Jenny Lake Lodge along the way.



I checked out and headed into Grand Teton National Park (it only costs US$25 for a 7-day pass to both Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks) towards Jenny Lake. The drive was amazing, so relaxing and the views absolutely mesmerizing.


By the time I got to Jenny Lake Lodge, breakfast was done (served until 9:30am) and I was too early for lunch. The woman at the front desk suggested I head to Signal Mountain Lodge since it's on the way to Brooks Lake, so I did. I stopped off at a viewing point for Jenny Lake. I was mesmerized by how clear the water was.


Once at Signal Mountian Lodge, I got side-tracked taking photos and stocking up on essentials for my pack trip (binoculars, sunscreen and insect repellent), that I realized I wouldn't have time to sit down for a bite. So I started driving once again.


Tip to drivers looking for Brooks Lake Road turnoff, it's the gravel road immediately after the turnoff. I missed it and probably ended up driving an extra 45 minutes. It's 5 miles of gravel road with pine trees for as far as the eye can see before you reach Brooks Lake Lodge, but its worth it. On approach, the view opens up and you see Brooks Lake to the right and the lodge set next to it with horses in the paddocks in the foreground. That instant, I knew my pack trip was going to be awesome...

Brooks Lake Lodge lobby wi-fi: Free.