Wyoming: Brooks Lake Lodge, Yellowstone, Old Faithful Inn & Amangani

12-14 July 2006

"I see trees of green, red roses too
I see 'em bloom, for me and for you
And I think to myself, what a wonderful world.

I see skies of blue, clouds of white
Bright blessed days, dark sacred nights
And I think to myself, what a wonderful world.

The colors of a rainbow, so pretty in the sky
Are also on the faces of people going by
I see friends shaking hands, sayin' how do you do
They're really sayin', "I love you".

I hear babies cry, I watch them grow
They'll learn much more, than I'll ever know
And I think to myself, what a wonderful world!"
~ Louis Armstrong, What a Wonderful World

"A picture says a thousand words," goes the saying. But sometimes, even a picture fails to accurately describe the emotional power of nature's beauty. In those instances, a song may work.

Singer Ray Callaway was performing cowboy and western songs throughout our dinner at Brooks Lake Lodge (BLL). All the other 11 guests seemed to know the songs, but I was hearing most of them for the first time. None of the songs seemed to move the group as much as when Ray did his rendition of Louis Armstrong's "What a Wonderful World". It made quite a few people teary-eyed around the dinner table. It was probably so moving, because it touched on what we were all feeling at that moment or had been experiencing since we arrived.

My four days in and around Jackson, including Grand Teton, Yellowstone and Dubois was perfectly rendered by the song. And all the people I met were wonderful -- There were the two couples from Michigan (one couple were the grandparents of Adam, one of the few full-time, year-round staff at BLL), a couple from Phoenix who also spend considerable time in Atlanta because the husband is trying to retire from a coaching the Atlanta Falcons, a scrabble-loving family from Alabama and a couple from Dallas. Everyone had been to BLL more than once.

Having just come back from the overnight pack trip, I could understand why BLL engenders such loyalty among its guests. The setting is stunning, the service superb in a familial (rather than formal) way and there's just so much to do (ride, hike, fish, boat, spa, etc.) within such the vast playground of Shoshone National Park. And despite being in the wilderness, you don't feel lacking of any comforts or conveniences. Sure, there was no mobile phone reception and no phone in my room, but I didn't feel the urge to take or make calls (of course, there is a house phone for those that do). There was free wi-fi in the lounge area. My laundry was done within hours. I stayed in one of the lodge rooms for US$330++/night, definitely a great value since it includes all three meals and afternoon tea as well as activities such as trail rides, fishing, guided hikes etc. (spa treatments, of course, are extra). There's no air-conditioning, but there's no real need for it either.




I was reluctant to leave BLL, but they were full and I had to move on to Yellowstone. I had had a fabulous time and everyone there (guests and staff) are such wonderful people. I hadn't actually made a reservation for where I was to stay next, but on a whim, I called up Old Faithful Inn (recommended by my uncle for its architectural and historical significance as well as it convenient location). They only had one of their bathroom-less rooms in the old wing, but at least I'd have somewhere to stay within the park.

It was 11am by the time I finally got myself to leave BLL. I arrived at Old Faithful Inn seven hours later, having driven around most of Yellowstone's southern loop. I made a few photo stops along the way. At one, a couple motor-bikers, who had ridden from Chicago, asked me to take their photo and asked after my marital status. I found it quite amazing that people drive from all parts of the country to Yellowstone, a good number of them in RVs (recreational vehicles, a bit like mobile motel rooms). Low prices at the gasoline pump really do contribute to the American way of life. My favourite photo-op was when a silly-looking bison caused a traffic jam in the opposite lane.


Everywhere, the ravages of the great fire of 1988 were evident, but also nature's regenerative power.


At Old Faithful Inn, my room had no bathroom, just a sink. I found it charming though; I was staying in the original part of the inn. Out of my window, I even had a view of Old Faithful (which goes off like clockwork every 90 minutes or so). To experience a piece of history with front row views of Old Faithful, US$90.10/night seemed pretty reasonable.


The historic inn has survived a lot since it was built in 1903. Obviously, it has undergone renovations and modernization, but much has been kept according to the original, including the materials used to fill in the gap between logs -- mud and grass!


The lobby, at seven stories high, is impressive.


The next morning, I went on a beautiful and inspiring walk to Mystic Falls, passing by a lot of hot springs, geysers and other hydrothermal features. It's a leisurely and pleasant walk, probably about 6 miles back-and-forth. Along the way, I happened upon a group being led by a Ranger Bach, so I joined in to listen to his fascinating explanations of what we were seeing along the way to the falls. Getting a ranger to guide you around the park is highly recommended!


I had a wonderful dinner at Amangani on my way back to Jackson. Amangani has a great location, set high up on a hill, overlooking the valley where you can see lots of wildlife roaming. You get this view from each of the rooms, pool, lobby...basically, from everywhere you look. I had dinner with Guy Heywood, the manager there, and got a hint of what is to come in terms of future Amans (In Asia, Beijing and Delhi are already slated to open soon. In the Americas, they're looking at Lake Powell, Utah and Baja, Mexico!). As always, Aman's level of service never ceases to amaze me. I had only made an arrangement to have dinner with Guy (not stay there as a guest), but the staff still addressed me by my name! I asked Guy how he manages to train staff to know. But of course, he didn't really let me in on their secret. Suffice it to say, it's a lot of training and briefing! Dining tip: Try their homemade ice creams! I had scoops of goat's cheese, port wine and graham cracker; all absoutely delish. And if you're staying there, make sure you have a nice romantic private dinner in their really, cool tee-pee, from which you can sip Kir Royals and watch the sun set over the valley below where the animals graze.


My one big disappointment on this trip: Lots of elk, but no bear!

Jackson: Alpine House & Grand Teton National Park

10 and 11 July 2006 -- Arrived into Jackson Airport around 9:30pm. Rented a car and headed into town. It was dark out, but I could still feel the tranquility of the vast landscape -- towering mountain ranges on either side and plains in between with an elk refuge. And oddly, I did feel like I had arrived in the land depicted in My Own Private Idaho, Even Cowgirls Get the Blues, A River Runs Through It, and most recently, Brokeback Mountain. Just a great expanse of wide open nature as far as the eye can see.

It wasn't difficult to find Alpine House, Jackson is a small town with just a few main streets. I walked into Alpine House and found an envelope with my name on it at the front desk. Inside were the key to my room and a note : "Sorry we missed you...please don't lock the front door.". Welcome to small town Jackson. All was quiet in the house, but as I started up the stairs to my room, I noticed a Japanese guy diligently working away on his laptop (I found out the next morning at breakfast that his colleagues/clients in London obviously didn't know he was on holiday in Jackson). Big town meets small town.


Alpine House is a great little B&B. I love the decor: quaint, country inn with a touch of Alpine.


Inside the room, everything foldable (tissue box, toilet paper, face towel) was folded in a fan shape (maybe Mandarin Oriental should consider using this little touch to tie in with their "I'm a fan" ad campaigns).


My room was comfortable enough for an overnight stay, a steal at US$165++/night. The best thing for me was the in-room wi-fi. After a brief chat with VH on msn messenger about Jackson area real estate, I went to bed excited about driving through Grand Teton on my way to Brooks Lake the next day for an overnight pack trip.



I woke up a bit later than usual (7am, which would have been 9am ET) and headed down for breakfast. The breakfast room was full so I wandered around the house and took a few pics. By the time I finished, I managed to find a table. I had a great breakfast of toasted english muffins with cream cheese and smoked salmon, grapefruit and coffee. I skipped the french toast and omelette because I wanted to grab a bit at Jenny Lake Lodge along the way.



I checked out and headed into Grand Teton National Park (it only costs US$25 for a 7-day pass to both Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks) towards Jenny Lake. The drive was amazing, so relaxing and the views absolutely mesmerizing.


By the time I got to Jenny Lake Lodge, breakfast was done (served until 9:30am) and I was too early for lunch. The woman at the front desk suggested I head to Signal Mountain Lodge since it's on the way to Brooks Lake, so I did. I stopped off at a viewing point for Jenny Lake. I was mesmerized by how clear the water was.


Once at Signal Mountian Lodge, I got side-tracked taking photos and stocking up on essentials for my pack trip (binoculars, sunscreen and insect repellent), that I realized I wouldn't have time to sit down for a bite. So I started driving once again.


Tip to drivers looking for Brooks Lake Road turnoff, it's the gravel road immediately after the turnoff. I missed it and probably ended up driving an extra 45 minutes. It's 5 miles of gravel road with pine trees for as far as the eye can see before you reach Brooks Lake Lodge, but its worth it. On approach, the view opens up and you see Brooks Lake to the right and the lodge set next to it with horses in the paddocks in the foreground. That instant, I knew my pack trip was going to be awesome...

Brooks Lake Lodge lobby wi-fi: Free.

Cambridge, MA: JFK's Words to Reflect Upon

I arrived at the college town of ivy-covered brick buildings on Friday night. I checked into Cambridge's Charles Hotel just in time for rehearsal dinner. Charles Hotel is very conveniently located by Harvard Square and right next to the JFK School of Government (in fact, I kept picking up on their wi-fi signal rather than the hotel's). The hotel is well-equiped (has got a great gym with swimming pool), and while its rooms are rather non-descript, they are quite large (mine had two queen beds, a desk, TV cabinet, bathroom with bathtub and shower, not separate though) and do not lack in anything. Comfort and convenience at US$219++ per night.

The great thing about flying to the US is that jet lag causes me to wake up early in the morning. So on Saturday morning, I was out jogging by Charles River by 6am. It's great to be up early. I always wish that I am a morning person. There's a stillness all around at that hour of the day. It was so soothing watching the devoted rowers out on the Charles River, it's the beauty of the smooth, gliding stroke over the calm, almost still, waters of the Charles.



On my way back (It took a while because I got lost looking for a Starbucks. In the end, I went for Peet's), I paused by the gate to the JFK Memorial Park, which is right by the Charles Pavilion and the entrance to the hotel. In the solitude of the early morning, I reflected on John F. Kennedy's inspiring and visionary words:

"And if we cannot end now our differences, at least we can help make the world safe for diversity. For, in the final analysis, our most basic common link is that we all inhabit this small planet. We all breathe the same air. We all cherish our children's future. And we are all mortal"



"What kind of peace do we seek? Not a Pax Americana enforced on the world by American weapons of war. Not the peace of the grave or the security of the slave, I am talking about genuine peace, the kind of peace that makes life on earth worth living...not merely peace for Americans but peace for all men and women -- not merely peace in our time but peace for all time." -- Both quotes from his Commencement Address at American University in Washington D.C., 10 June 1963.



Powerful words, moving words, and so relevant to our time now. I wish our current POTUS would study JFK's words of wisdom (especially this quote: "Let us once again awaken our American revolution until it guides the struggles of people everywhere -- not with an imperialism of force or fear but the rule of courage and freedom and hope for the future of man."); the world and this country (USA) would be much better for it. I ended up walking to the two other gates of the park just to read the four other equally inspiring quotes, all worthy of reflection. All of course, made me think of JFK's most famous quote: "And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you -- ask what you can do for your country. My fellow citizens of the word: ask not what America will do for you, but what together we can do for the freedom of man". -- Inaugural Address, 21 January 1961. JFK's words still strike a chord today. Circumstances may have changed, but we still desire and need a world of peace as well as freedom and dignity for all of humanity. And the responsibility for achieving these goals rests with every single individual, especially those privileged enough to already live such a life. Because, "freedom is indivisible, and when one man is enslaved, all are not free".

Charles Hotel Wi-Fi: US$10.95/24 hours